CHURCH
We wanted to go to the Greek Orthodox Church at the top of the hill today but didn’t know when the service started. We discovered at 8:15 that it started at 8, but we went anyway. We got there at 8:45 and there were about 15 people there, but by the end of the service at 9:45 there were at least 25. We weren’t late after all. Women kept coming in and walking to the front, pausing in front of some of the paintings and seeming to kiss the small painting in front of each painting. This was while the service was going on. There was one priest out of sight in front of us behind a pillar and the older priest, that sat with me mute at the memorial service coffee two weeks ago after the service, who officiated. There were two altar boys in red robes.
Again, the audience was simply the audience and took no part in the service. Again the entire service was beautiful sing songy chanting and ritual, often taking place in the inner chamber and out of sight. At the very end children, who appeared with their parents at the end of the service, were given bread and a sip of something. Then the adults came forward for bread and as soon as they took the bread and turned back the service was over and then began talking to each other.
It was a beautiful service without anyone understanding a word as far as I could tell. I took a few photos at the end of the service and after it was over.
And then Susie an I went to the graveyard behind the church and she showed me a room full of silver boxes piled high with photos of people in front of them. Could these be ashes? We’ll have to ask someone.
And then we went down the hill to a cafe that Susie had discovered full of old men playing games and talking. They were there two days ago and they were there again today. This was a plain cafe, not shiny and modern as the now closed tourist cafes are. It stays open year around. I had bacon and eggs with fresh bread for 4 euros, half the price of the Regoussis Bakery. And then we walked back to Efi’s place.
Efi was cooking. Today we would have snails. Efi brought us up a Greek salad, a plate of boiled potatoes for Susie who is a non snail eater, and a bowl of snails in a tomato sauce for me. With a knife you hook the snails and then they come out whole. They were delicious.
It was a very special, very Greek day.
BILLYBABA’S WANDERING 